The history of surfing goes back to the ancient Polynesians. Although we don't know the exact location of where people first rode waves standing up on surfboards we do know that Hawaiian Islands are surfing's spiritual home.

The Hawaiian Islands are the most remote in the world, situated right in the centre of the mighty Pacific Ocean thousands of miles from the nearest land. For the early Polynesian settlers it must have been the ultimate paradise. It had warm crystal blue water filled with life. White sandy beaches and tall mountains covered with lush green vegetation.

During these early times all, men, women, children and indeed the Hawaiian Royalty, enjoyed surfing. The chiefs had their own private surf spots and special boards called the 'Olo' made from the Wiliwili tree. Everyone else rode the 'Alaia' board made from the Koa tree. Completely isolated from the rest of civilization well into the 18th century, the Hawaiians enjoyed their paradise, and surfing was an integral part of this.

In 1778 Captain James Cook came across the Hawaiian archipelago whilst canvassing the north pacific for islands on board the HMS Resolution. Cook and his men were overwhelmed by the water skills of the Hawaiians. Seeing for the first time the Hawaiians stand up and ride on top of the waves on specially crafted planks of wood was truly remarkable. Cook had travelled more extensively than any other man at this time had never before seen anything like it.

The meeting of two incredibly different cultures had a devastating impact on Hawaii. The Europeans brought disease, guns, alcohol and their religion. The years between 1800 and 1900 saw the Hawaiian population drop from an estimated 400,000 to 40,000. When the early missionaries arrived in the 1800's they frowned upon the Hawaiians culture of surfing, they believed it to relate too closely to the sins of nakedness, sexuality, informality and freedom, ideals not associated with the protestant church. This mentality, combined with the huge drop in Hawaiian population all but eradicated surfing during the 19th Century. If it were not for a few isolated groups surfing might have disappeared altogether. One place where surfing was kept alive was Waikiki beach, near Honolulu on the island of Oahu where a growing amount of the indigenous population had moved to live.

By the turn of the 20th Century Hawaii had become part of the U.S and a growing number of Americans came to Hawaii for holidays or indeed to live. They marvelled at the skills of the Hawaiians at Waikiki. It wasn't long before the haoles (white foreigners) got involved in surfing and started an official organisation, 'the Outrigger Canoe and Surfboard Club.' A couple of years later a group of Hawaiians got together to form the 'Hui Nalu' these two surf clubs were hugely popular and competitive. The seed of surfing's renaissance had been planted. It wasn't long before surfing jumped across the pacific to the Californian Coast. Beaches in Southern California like San Onfre and Malibu became popular with people wanting to learn how to surf.

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